Diphu Diaries

While most travellers like to navigate Assam by road, a train ride can offer a captivating perspective. Gliding through a tapestry of lush green paddy fields, charming rural stations, and tranquil water bodies adorned with vibrant lilies and lotuses, the gentle rhythm of the train seems to merge with the earth-scented air.

Journeying from Guwahati to Diphu aboard 1607 Jan Shatabdi Express (except Sundays) is particularly unforgettable. Unique moments unfold with every passing mile—the comfort of the train matched only by the anticipation of what lies ahead. With an AC Vistadome Coach designed for panoramic sightseeing, alongside multiple AC Chair Cars and Second-Class seating, the journey is part of the adventure.

Reaching Diphu, the gateway to mesmerising Karbi Anglong, in just 3.5 hours, and by hiring local vehicles with experienced “Sarothis” for sightseeing, visitors can embark on a seamless exploration of the area while also contributing to the economic well-being of the local community. After checking into a cozy homestay or guest house or hotel, set out to explore Longsokangthu or Siloni Eco-Tourism Park. A mere 27 kilometres away, along the sacred banks of the Longnit River, it offers breathtaking views. From here, a short climb leads to another magnificent spectacle, the Langvoku Waterfall in Dillai—a paradise for nature enthusiasts and plipli (butterfly)lovers.

The mosaic of Karbi culture is most experienced in Longnit village, where Karbi women, bring motifs to life with intricate weaving techniques on their bamboo looms. Each butterfly, elephant, or peacock pattern narrate stories passed down generations—an artistry that supports the household economy and preserves the community’s rich culture.

Back in Diphu, explore its bustling organic vegetable market. Aptly known as the Land of Vegetables, Karbi Anglong is a culinary haven, and as evening descends, and the scent of local delights waft in the air, just sit down at a roadside stall to savour smoked chicken and pork. Each bite is a celebration of flavours, a perfect way to conclude your first day in this beautiful region.

The next day visit the majestic Dikrutpi or Bhelughat Waterfall—a gem nestled in the wilderness and a scenic three-hour drive away. Reach this breath-taking cascade, particularly stunning during the monsoon when the surrounding greenery bursts to life, and you will be reminded of the epic landscapes of Baahubali. On the way back to Diphu, stop at Paklongkam, Teke Langjun, Nopakghat (Garo village), Bura Gohain Than, Etpo Taro, Habe Rongphar villages, Mahamaya Than and Silveta at Dokmoka for unique experiences and understanding this vibrant land.

Next day, after a traditional Karbi breakfast of rice cakes (Karbi Ahim), aromatic black tea (Sa-ke-er), and succulent pork with dried bamboo shoots (Phak Ok Ke-ur), make your way to the Nothengpi–Karbi Heritage Museum, open between 9am and 7:30pm. Dedicated to the iconic ‘Nothengpi’ earrings worn by Karbi women, it showcases artifacts that provide profound insights into the daily life and sacred practices of the community. Take time to wander through Diphu’s vibrant markets (closed on Sundays). Here, unique necklaces and waist belts, and colourful handwoven shawls and jackets will catch your eye for mementos of a wonderful trip. What you must not miss though is the traditional ‘Pekok’ and Seleng (upper body cloth), for women. These have gained attention in the fashion world—much due to the Karbi Youth Festival (KYF) that has since 1974 been inspiring generations with vibrant performances and cultural pride.

Finally, before boarding the 12068 evening train back to Guwahati savouring the last bites of Karbi food, infused with herbs like ‘tihaso’ (Curcuma aromatica), your heart full, not just from the flavours but from the memories of this less-explored corner of Assam, you will be left with a profound longing to return.

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