Travellers on ‘timeless trails’ are more than tourists—they are seekers. They journey beyond the obvious, to feel the pulse of forgotten histories and immerse in stories that stretch beyond time. For those drawn to ancient ruins, silent revolutions, secluded Satra, lesser-visited wildlife park, and newly unearthed temple remains, the northern bank route of Assam—from Baihata to Dhekiajuli and beyond via NH 15 (formerly NH 52)—offers a journey unlike any other.
In contrast to the bustling southern NH 37 (now NH 715), this route unfolds through tranquil landscapes and unexplored corridors. It leads not just through space, but through time—where every bend hides a memory, and every stop is a chapter in Assam’s layered past.
The trail begins at Pingaleswar, home to 10th–12th century sculptures dedicated to Lord Shiva. Intricate carvings still speak of devotion and artistic excellence from a time when Shiva was worshipped here as Pingleswar. A small sculptural gallery and museum offer deeper insight into this sacred legacy. A short drive away, the ruins of Madan Kamdev lie atop a quiet hill. These 10th–12th century temple remnants, likely built during the Pala dynasty, are wrapped in myth and timeless beauty—believed to mark the rebirth of Kama, the god of love, after his fiery encounter with Shiva.
A de-tour of about 8 km from Sipajhar Tinali leads to Patharighat, a village marked by solemn history, ‘Patharughatar Ran’. In 1894, long before Jallianwala Bagh, Assam saw its own massacre when British forces opened fire on unarmed peasants protesting unjust taxes, killing nearly 140. Today, this site stands not as a symbol of dark tourism, but as a tribute to silent courage and unyielding resistance. Nearby lies Khatara Satra, founded in 1568 by Sri Govinda Atoi, a disciple of Mahapurush Madhavdev. Unique in both form and faith, it is guided by a collective of thirty Medhis. It remains a living centre of Naam Dharma, celebrating key spiritual festivals like Pachati Mahotsav—a vibrant four-day event held annually from the last day of the Assamese month of Bhada, echoing Assam’s deep devotional roots.
As you rejoin NH 15 and head toward Orang National Park and Tiger Reserve—often dubbed ‘mini Kaziranga’—for its rich biodiversity, nature takes centre stage. From November to April, jeep safaris reveal golden grasslands alive with life. Tigers may be elusive, but Orang’s charm lies in quieter moments—a grazing rhino, birds painting the sky, or the forest’s gentle hush. Here, you tune into nature’s rhythm, never leaving disappointed, even without stripes.
Your journey culminates at Gupteswar temple in Singri, where history and divinity intertwine. Dating to the pre-Ahom era, this temple blends stone and brick in rare harmony. Despite centuries of earthquakes, its Nagara-style shikhara, amalaka, and remarkable medieval stone ceiling still endure. Recent excavations by the Directorate of Archaeology, Assam have revealed remains and artifacts that bridge the Salasthambha and Ahom dynasties—making Gupteswar not just a shrine, but a living chronicle of Assam’s spiritual and architectural evolution.
This northern bank trail is more than a route—it’s an odyssey. Step off the well-worn path. Let Assam’s hidden stories guide your way. The journey is waiting.